Sliding Down The Wave
<html><img src="surfing.jpg"></html>\nOh crap. This sudden swell is way past what you had in mind when you took off for a quick morning's surf session. This monster must be lost, wandered over from Jaws down the coast. You seriously don't think you can handle this. Time to cut your losses. Time to just try to make it over or under this wave...\n\nWait, who are you kidding?\n\nTime to [[charge 'um!]]\n\n\n
Mom and dad bringing a picnic. Your three-year-old little sister running loose in the tide pools. Climbing down the rock wall rather than going down the stairs like a normal person. You and your friends daring each other to do something less and less wise with fireworks.\n\nOkay, I didn't say they were //interesting// memories. But that's what you get for woolgathering as you paddle further out and [[get into position]].
<html>\n <img src="rainbows.jpg">\n <embed src="08 No Ke Aha No 'oe.m4a" width="32" height="32"></embed>\n</html>\nHe doesn't seem phased by your look of adoration. Probably gets this sort of thing all the time.\n\nYou follow him around anyway, and soon realize that you're no longer in the Hawaii you left. You've surfed into a different world or at least a different time. There's a lot to explore and many people to meet!\n\nTHE END...for now?
Yeah, who needs this surfing stuff anyway. There are widgets to recapitulate. The coffee's not going to make itself. Another day, another dollar.\n\nOr so you tell yourself as you start to [[paddle out]] anyway.
Better just get out of here before things get ugly. This isn't the same place you grew up at--things have gotten a lot more tense with the locals.\n\nBut as you run off, you realize the landscape looks familiar yet very, very different. You are lost and friendless and out of your depth. \n\nTHE END...for now?
<html> <img src="lrn2surf.jpg"></html>\nUsually there's someone else here even at this early hour, but not this morning. So it's all about you choosing where to place yourself, right where you know the finest waves will crest and break.\n\nGotta hustle now. There will be plenty of time to relax waiting for the next set.\n\nWait, this next swell looks serious. This might be the [[big one]].\n\n\n
You know, surfing at daybreak. Gotta get up to arrive before the sun. Also before all those annoying other people. Hopefully.
It's been a hard week of backbreaking and/or mindbending labor. You're losing focus, losing position, losing your path. You have to be in to work in an hour. But first, there's time for a little [[Dawn Patrol]].\n<html><img src="dawnpatrol.jpg" width="75%" height="75%"></html>\n\n\nYour trusty board is waxed and ready. The sun is peeking over the morning ocean. There might even be some waves soon. You're about to <<choice "paddle out" "paddle out">> [[paddle out]].\n\nBut you've got a lot to do. Maybe you should wait until next week. Maybe you should just put the board back on top of the car and <<choice "head in early" "head in early">> [[head in early]].
<html><img src="pavilions.jpg"></html>\nThey call it that due to the concrete shade structures up on the beach. Your other options were "Middles" and "H'Poko," although the latter is riddled with windsurfers.\n\nSurf spot naming trivia is fascinating, isn't it?\n\nStill, this place holds a lot of [[memories]].
Hoe He'e Nalu
<html>\n<embed src="wipeout.m4a" width="32" height="32"></embed>\n<img src="duke.jpg">\n</html>\n\n"E! You awake? You wen wipeout hard."\n\nA big Hawaiian man is standing over you, looking down with a mix of concern and annoyance. Did he rescue you, or is he just mad at your for getting to "his" surfspot first?\n\n* <<choice "running away" "Oh crap...he's gonna pound me flat">>\n* <<choice "chillin with Duke" "Who is this guy? I need to thank him">>\n* <<choice "unrequited love" "He's actually kinda dreamy!">>\n\n\n\n\n\n
by Allan Anderson
<html>\n <embed src="10 I Waipio Kainani Kahaunaele.mp3" width="32" height="32"></embed>\n <img src="surfers.jpg">\n</html>\n\nYou fall to chatting with the friendly surfer. Before long, you notice that his board is a huge antique...several feet longer than the one you lost, and made of wood! You try to keep your mouth shut as the shock sets in. You may have washed in further away from home than you thought.\n\nLuckily, your host is generous--you have plenty of poi, sweet Kula onions, and corned beef to keep you going while you explore Old Hawaii.\n\nTHE END...for now?
It's a calm morning with just a slight off-shore breeze. You're paddling out to [[Pavilions]], just like you used to do with your dad. The water is cold and smooth, like your heart. Okay, maybe you're being a little melodramatic. Let your shoulders do the work as your cupped hands dig into the water. Let your mind clear for a moment. Let that sarcastic reply go.\n\nHey, is that a set coming in? Better [[get into position]]!
Ah, yeah. This is it. This is what it's all about. A desperate burst of speed ending in a timeless floating above everything. No one can touch you now. You have nothing waiting for you. Nothing you're putting off or avoiding or forgetting. There's nothing but this moment of blue water as you slide down the biggest face you've ever experienced.\n\nNothing but you and the water. And the big crashing white as your board lurches out from under you and you're thrown deep. You hold your breath in deep, but you're starting to wonder why. You feel the leash that attaches your board to your ankle stretch and snap. Then you don't feel anything.\n\nTime passes.\n\nEventually, you [[wake up]].